A journey that transforms
Located northwest of the province of Carchi, the Community of Chilmá Bajo is not only a destination: it is a journey of the soul. We left from Tulcán and, as we advanced, the landscape changed with us. We passed through the high páramo, embraced by the Andean wind and escorted by the imposing presence of the Chiles volcano. Each curve revealed a different postcard. And as we descended, the weather also spoke to us: the dry cold gave way to a warmer, more humid breeze, full of life.
Where the landscape lives
In Chilmá Bajo, nature is not only observed: it is felt, heard, smelled. The green mountains embrace the community, and the dirt roads lead us between crops and ravines. The walks were magical. On the way, a child crossed us with a shy smile; later, a young man on a horse greeted without haste, like someone who has time to live. The music also accompanied us: the echo of a guitar came from a distant house. It was a rehearsal for ‘Los Rumberos del Valle’, a local group that sings to their land with pride.
A community that cultivates with the soul
Here blackberry and granadilla are grown with dedication, without haste, as if each fruit inherited the noble character of its people. The plants grow on fertile soils, surrounded by fog and sun. The land is generous, and those who work it do so with respect and memory. There is no agribusiness, there is connection.
Roots that whisper history
Although the purpose of the trip was not an archaeological exploration, it was inevitable to feel the ancestral strength that inhabits these mountains. The Pasto culture, present in much of the Carchi, seems to be latent in every stone carved by time, in every look that is silent. Chilmá Bajo preserves that energy that does not need to be explained. It is intuited, it is honored.
How to get there
From Tulcán you can take a bus in the direction of Maldonado. The journey is long but beautiful, and worth every minute. From Maldonado, you can coordinate local transport or walk part of the stretch to live closely the connection with the landscape. It is not a tourist path: it is a real road, of those that leave a mark on the heart.
Final reflection
Returning from Chilmá Bajo was not easy. Something inside me wanted to stay. Maybe it was the music in the distance, the sincere greetings, the sown fields or the green silence of the hills. Maybe it was all together. Look for meetings.
Written by Lia 🌸 Lover of silence, the wet earth and the stories that the mountains whisper.